Thursday, June 4, 2015

days in the desert ....

This is Jennifer's break before her last quarter of nursing school. She wanted to go on a mini-vacation before putting her nose to the grindstone again.

We decided to hit some sites in Eastern Washington where the weather should be drier this time of year. I also got the idea from my previous climbing trips to Frenchman's Coulee that it would be nice to cover some ground by mountain biking on the jeep roads through the desert. So we loaded up the bikes and set course east.

On the way over, we decided to drive far the first day to Palouse Falls State Park. This would mean we could hit sites on the way back, and have a shorter drive on our final day. So we passed the coulees of Central Washington, and drove through the flat farmland to reach our destination in the southeast portion of the state. After making a few scenic stops and to check out camping accommodations we arrived at Palouse Falls State Park in the afternoon. Guidebooks herald the falls as one of the best in the state. This is true. But part of the beauty of the falls is that the Palouse river flows through the deep basalt cliffs of Palouse Canyon below the falls. Not quite The Grand Canyon, but quite a wonderful site to see. We strolled around the grounds and viewed the falls and upper falls. There are a few scrambles that would take you closer to the falls, but we opted not to. The "Falling can be deadly" signs must have worked on us.

Since camping was available in the park, we set up the tent and stayed the night.

Palouse Falls pics here.

The next day we awoke to rain. So we decided to head south to Walla Walla and check out some wineries. On the way there, we hoped to stop in Lyon's Ferry State Park, but it was closed for the season. We were able to get in via access through some federal land and got to glimpse the lower Palouse Canyon and the confluence of the Palouse and Snake rivers at Lyon's Ferry. Lyon's Ferry State Park also marks the location where the oldest human remains have been found in North America. The dig site is now buried under water, but it is still an interesting place. We walked a bit around, then headed toward Walla Walla.

Sulfur Lake and the confluence of the Palouse and Snake Rivers

We stopped in two wineries in Walla Walla; the Three Rivers and L'Ecole #41. Both were nice and the old school house that is L'Ecole #41 was really quaint. It appears most wineries in Walla Walla charge for a tasting. (Usually $5 per person, but we were able to split the charge.)

After Walla Walla the weather cleared a bit, and we were headed to Potholes State Park to camp for the night. On the way there, we were going to stop at Twin Sisters Rock a little south of the Walla Walla River on the Columbia. In the guide book, it looks more impressive in size than it actually is. It is a cool formation, but with such easy access to the road, it is heavily vandalized. After a short hike up, we headed north to Potholes.

Twin Sisters Rock

We arrived in Potholes State Park and much to our enjoyment read that the camping fee was free until April 1st. We set up camp and hiked around a bit. Potholes State Park is centered around Potholes Reservoir which is a man made reservoir out in the desert. The damming of the stream, caused the water table to rise, and filled many of the potholes in the area with water. Unlike the rest of the desert, there tends to be lots of water, and it is a bit greener too. A little to the east of Potholes State Park is the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge, which hosts many migrating birds. We hiked along the creek in Potholes and saw lots of deer tracks and coyote scat, but no mammals other than a muskrat.

We set our sites for the final day to ride the roads in the Wildlife Refuge through the desert. We went to sleep under clear but windy skies. The next morning we waited a bit for the sun to warm the desert before heading out. It is about a two mile road ride from the state park to earliest entrance to the refuge. You could ride along the narrow dam roadway if you wanted to enter the refuge farther east. We wanted to start our adventure as soon as possible and entered the refuge right before the dam.

Although it was clear the refuge had seen a fire some time in the past, the area is significantly more lush than the surrounding desert due to the higher water table. There is more variety of vegetation than the typical sagebrush and rye grass. We rode on jeep trails for a bit, until we noticed the sky darkening and rain starting to our east. We hoped to ride back to the west and out to avoid it, but wound up at a dead end. As we headed back to retrace our route, we went through a bit of a dust storm, and eventually the rain which was headed in the opposite direction of us. It was over before we got really wet, and we retraced our route back out to a location we could ride out from. Jennifer was a little tired, and we left to go home.

Overall, I'd like to do some more exploring in the desert on my mountain bike. It was a fun and faster way to get around than on foot. Although I did find it somewhat difficult in the more sandy sections. Hopefully I'll have more opportunity in the future to do it again.

Wildlife refuge pics here.

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Cottontails

We've gone from snow to temps in the 70s in one week. Don't plant your tomatoes yet though, says our Extension guy; there's still more cold weather to come.


Divided heart-shaped rock that has nothing to do with this post.

I'll be at the Cottontails craft show this weekend at the Birmingham-Jefferson Civic center. So if you are local and have $6, come see me. If you come Friday morning, you may see a friend of mine too. Two blogging soapmakers for the price of one. And if tell me, "You said on your blog that you'd give me a 10% discount," then I will.

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Slight Jaunt South on the Richardson...

When I woke up early Saturday morning (August 21st) it was cold and foggy. Probably the coldest it has been any morning since being in Alaska. The fog was pretty thick but thankfully it wasn't at ground level. It seemed to be hovering about 15 feet above the ground.

From Glennallen, I headed south on the Richardson Highway (Route 4) towards Valdez. There really wasn't anything I wanted to see or do in Valdez but the Worthington Glacier was on the Richardson (85 miles south of Glennallen and about 30 miles north of Valdez) in the Chugach Mountains near Thompson Pass, which happens to be the snowiest place in Alaska. Besides, it was supposed to be a pretty drive. And it would have been except for the fog and the clouds.

You can see a little patch of blue coming through the clouds, promises of things to come. This is the Worthington Glacier, taken a few minutes before 9 o'clock. I don't know its dimensions. Lets just say that it's big!



The trail up to the top of glacier (a mile long with a 1200 foot elevation gain) was “officially” closed and warning signs were posted regarding the instability of the glacier and the area surrounding it. However, I saw several people scrambling over the rocks and hiking out to it, though they only went to the face of the glacier, not to the top. Two people can be seen in this photo, above and to the right of the trees. (Double-click on the photo to see a larger version.) If you are interested, in July .. several guys hiked to the top of the glacier. They have posted an entry with lots of neat photos at Natural Born Hikers.

If you look real close, you can see that two people are standing at the bottom edge of the glacier, in the center of the picture. Really.

Cropped and enlarged version of the previous photograph. Can you see them now?
To the north and west, the skies were trying to clear. The little lake was formed when the glacier retreated. The drive back to Glennallen in the afternoon more than made up for the dreariness of the morning. Although clouds filled the sky, there was also plenty of sunshine!




The mountains are part of the enormous Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
This last shot was taken when I drove east for a few miles on Alaska Route 10 (Edgerton Highway), which goes to the town of Chitina, 34 miles away. The unpaved McCarthy Road begins at Chitina and ends in 60 miles at the Kennicott River. It's another half mile to McCarthy and five miles further to the town of Kennicott. (Visitors cross the Kennicott River on a footbridge, then walk or take a shuttle to McCarthy and Kennicott.)

“The Milepost” states that the McCarthy Road is recommended for those who like adventurous driving. Motorists should watch for sharp rocks, railroad spikes, no shoulders, narrow sections, soft spots, washboard, potholes and roller-coaster curves. You might think that railroad spikes would be an odd thing to have to be on the lookout for but the McCarthy Road was built on a railroad right of way after the railroad was torn up. You may also think that I'm adventurous, but foolish I'm not and I didn't even attempt to go down McCarthy Road.

The towns of Chitina, McCarthy, and Kennicott are the gateways to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, which in reality, isn't accessible to the average person. It is wilderness in the truest sense and a haven for experienced backpackers and mountaineers.

Back on the Richardson Highway I stopped at the Visitor Center a few miles south of Glennallen and watched a 22 minute film. That is the only way that I and most people will ever be able to “visit” the park. It looks incredibly beautiful. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is the largest unit of the national park system encompassing nearly 24 million acres. It contains the greatest collection of peaks over 16,000 feet as well as the largest concentration of glaciers on the continent. It is also the reason why it is an almost 600 mile drive from Glennallen to Haines!

Homer is at the end of the Kenai Peninsula in the lower left. Haines is in the lower right corner, a driving distance of approximately 900 miles. The route from Valdez to Haines more or less follows the perimeter of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Skagway is only 15 miles from Haines via ferry but is 300 miles via the highway! The yellow-highlighted routes are the roads that I've traveled thus far. (On the day this post was scheduled – August 24th - I was in Haines.)

I stopped for the night at Tok, which is at the junction of the Alaska Highway, in the middle of the map and 90 miles from the Canadian border.

Baxter Springs

The first stop in Kansas was the Johnston Public Library in Baxter Springs, Cherokee County. Apparently an index to the cemetery hasn't been published, at least the girl at the reference desk didn't know anything about it. She did give me directions to the cemetery though.



Gravesite of Jacob Henry Parkison and Roxie Arminta Joslin Parkison at Baxter Springs Cemetery, Cherokee County, Kansas. Jacob is a half-brother of my 2nd Great Grandfather William Brubaker and Roxie is a sister of my 2nd Great Grandmother Malissa Joslin Brubaker Bower.



The marker for Jacob and Roxie is in the lower right corner. Several of their children and grandchildren are buried in rows to the north of Jacob and Roxie. It is quite a large cemetery and it took about an hour to find their graves. I'm really glad it turned out to be a nice day!

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Brookgreen Gardens~The Lowcountry Zoo


We decided to hit the zoo as one of the first stops at Brookgreen Gardens. The first thing we noticed is how natural the environment was. It is probably the most untouched animal areas we have ever witnessed at a zoo.



Because there were so many trees, this made the animal area very cool temperature wise. We enjoyed the shade and cooler weather and I'm hoping that means the animals did too.



All of the animals here were rescued or were born in captivity. All of the animals are not able to be released back into the wild. They have animals that are native to the swamps, woods and waters of the Lowcountry. They also have domestic animals to the Plantation. We saw a great number of animals from alligators to river otters, my favorite being the bald eagle who was a bit feisty.





I can't forget a picture of an owl for Miss Aubs.



We really enjoyed this part of Brookgreen.



Living the life in SC!

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Water features

From the same garden as the pictures of last week. Four views of a fountain:









A daisy bath among white iris.



Another fountain.



A small waterfall. I believe this was a new feature in the garden.



-----

I very brilliantly strained my back while lifting some 50-pound pails of soapmaking oils (without using my back brace). Sitting bothers it the most, so I may not post as much or visit other blogs as much as normal for a little while.